Aquavit and Aquavit history in Innherred
A Spirited History
Norway’s alcohol history is a curious one – and aquavit’s story is no exception. Over the past 500 years, aquavit has transformed from a medicinal remedy to a beloved collector’s item.
We take a deep dive into this rich tradition – tracing the journey of aquavit through Norway, Trøndelag, and Innherred. From Archbishop Engelbrektson in the 1500s to today’s handcrafted production at Berg Gård, the story of aquavit is as colourful as the spirit itself.
Kveldsutsikt i Børgefjell nasjonalpark. Foto: Bernartwood / trondelag.com
What is Aquavit?
Aquavit is a traditional Scandinavian spirit, typically clear or golden in colour. In Norway, aquavit is uniquely made from potatoes, unlike in neighbouring countries where it is usually grain-based.
Its distinct flavour comes from a blend of spices distilled with spirit and water – most notably caraway or dill. Other botanicals, such as anise, star anise, fennel, cardamom, vanilla, coriander, lemon peel, and bog myrtle, are often added to create more complex profiles.
Norwegian aquavit is protected under EU regulations. To carry the label “Norwegian Aquavit,” it must be made from potato spirit with at least 95% Norwegian-grown potatoes and aged in oak for a minimum of six months. It must also contain a distilled essence of either caraway or dill, and meet specific standards for sweetness. The final product must have an alcohol content of at least 37.5%.
Akevittskapet i fatlageret på Berg Gård og Inderøy Brenneri. Foto: Explorative AS
The water of life
The first known use of distilled spirits – or “burnt wine” – in Norway dates back to around the year 1200. Alcohol was valued for its ability to extract the essence and aroma of herbs and plants, making it an important ingredient in early medicine. It was even used as a remedy during the Black Death around 1350.
This medicinal role endured for centuries and is likely the reason behind the shared name for many of these spirits across cultures: aqua vit, eau de vie, and whiskey – all meaning the same thing: “the water of life.”
The archbishop and the advent of aquavit
The history of spiced spirits in Norway begins in 1531, when governor Eske Bille sent Archbishop Olav Engelbrektson a flavoured spirit called aqua vitae – which Bille claimed could cure all ailments. This is considered Norway’s first recorded spirits, and the archbishop used it as a medicinal remedy.
Over time, people began distilling alcohol at home, though the results often tasted unpleasant. To improve the flavour, they turned to herbs – especially caraway, which was also believed to aid digestion.
In the 18th century, Christopher Blix Hammer – often called the father of Norwegian aquavit – became a key figure. He encouraged Norwegian farmers to become self-sufficient by growing potatoes and producing their own spirits, rather than relying on imports. Hammer even wrote guides on improving distillation techniques.
As potatoes gradually replaced grain in spirit production, the unique character of Norwegian aquavit began to take shape – with caraway becoming a defining and much-loved ingredient.
1. Archbishop Engelbrektson - read more
Archbishop Engelbrektson – The First Drop.
The story of spiced spirits in Norway begins with Archbishop Olav Engelbrektson in Trondheim. In 1531, governor Eske Bille, stationed at Bergenhus Fortress, sent the archbishop a spiced spirit. In his letter, Bille referred to the drink as aqua vitae – “water of life” – claiming it could “help against all the illnesses a person may suffer internally.”
Today, Bille is credited with producing the first Norwegian spirit, while Archbishop Engelbrektson is recognised as the first to use aquavit medicinally in Norway – marking the beginning of a long and storied tradition.
3. Potatoes - the grape of the Nordics. Read more
The Grape of the North
It was the clergy who led the charge in what became a true spirits revolution in Norway. At the turn of the 19th century, soaring grain prices, poor harvests, and widespread food shortages prompted priests to champion a new crop that had recently arrived in the country. The potato needed little nourishment, thrived in harsh conditions, and offered generous yields.
Before long, Norwegian farmers recognised its potential, and potato cultivation soared. The fact that you could also produce alcohol from potatoes proved to be a turning point. Grain was considered a gift from God – far too precious to be used for distillation. Potatoes, however, were an ideal alternative.
Although Swedish Countess Eva Ekeblad was among the first to describe how starch and flour could be extracted from potatoes – laying the groundwork for their use in spirit production – it was in Norway that potato-based spirits truly took root. In many ways, this marked the birth of what we now know as Norwegian aquavit.
2. The advent of caraway - read more
The Arrival of Caraway
In the early days, much of the alcohol consumed in Norway was made from imported grain. It didn’t take long before people began building their own stills, and home distillation became a common household activity. These stills often sat in the hearth, turning grain into strong spirits.
However, most of the home-distilled liquor tasted quite unpleasant. To mask the harsh flavour, people began experimenting with herbs and spices. Caraway quickly became a favourite – it had a bold taste, was freely available, and, importantly, supported digestion. These qualities made caraway a popular and lasting addition to Norwegian spirits.
4. Christopher Blix Hammer | The father of Norwegian aquavit
The Father of Norwegian Aquavit
Christopher Blix Hammer (1720-1804) is widely regarded as the father of Norwegian aquavit. In the 18th century, much of the spirit consumed in Norway was imported from Germany or Denmark. But Hammer, a visionary of his time, wrote several influential books towards the end of the century, advising Norwegian farmers on how to achieve self-sufficiency in potato cultivation and, crucially, how to produce their own spirits instead of relying on imports.
Hammer’s aim was to encourage farmers to distil their own alcohol, not just for the sake of self-reliance, but also to improve the quality of their home-produced spirits. Through his writings, he provided valuable insights into the distillation process, ensuring that Norwegian aquavit could flourish and become a distinctive, high-quality product in its own right.
Sundnes aquavit from Inderøy
Established in 1844 by Andreas Mattson, Sundnes Brenneri in Inderøy is one of the oldest distilleries in Trøndelag. The distillery rose to prominence under the ownership of Herman Løchen, who introduced aquavit production and helped make Sundnes Aquavit widely known. Løchen combined distillation with large-scale farming, making the operation one of the region’s key enterprises. However, after facing financial losses, he was forced into bankruptcy in 1874.
In 1877, M.H. Lundgreen’s Enke took over the operation, before it was purchased by Jørgen B. Lysholm in 1899. After a devastating fire, the distillery was rebuilt as a modern raw spirit facility. In 1912, with the rise of the temperance movement and a new taxation system, local farmers came together to form a joint-stock company and bought the distillery, marking a new chapter in its history.
Sundnes brenneri, tegnet av Henrik Mathiesen.
1. Sundnes Distillery (Sundnes Brug) in Inderøy – read more
Sundnes Brenneri (Sundnes Brug) – Inderøy’s historic distillery
Sundnes Brenneri is one of the oldest spirit distilleries in Trøndelag. It was established in 1844 at Sundnes Gård by Andreas Mattson, a Swedish coppersmith who had spent the previous decade running a distillery in Trondheim. With Sundnes, he launched a grand estate distillery on Inderøy.
In 1848, Herman Løchen took over the farm and distillery, ushering in a period of great innovation and growth. Educated in the distilling craft in Germany, Løchen had managed his father’s distillery in Christiania (Oslo) and later Jenssen’s distillery at Vinje in nearby Mosvik.
Under Løchen’s leadership, Sundnes became a model estate, blending forward-thinking agriculture with industry. It was he who first began producing spiced spirits – aquavit – at Sundnes, and over time, Sundnes Aquavit gained widespread recognition. By the latter half of the 1800s, it was considered on par with the famous Lysholm Aquavit in both quality and reputation.
3. Jørgen B. Lysholm at Sundnes Distillery (Sundnes Estate) – read more
Jørgen B. Lysholm at Sundnes Brenneri (Sundnes Brug)
In 1899, the distillery was purchased by Bjarne Lysholm and Andreas Olsen, representing the well-known firm Jørgen B. Lysholm of Trondheim. That same year, tragedy struck when the distillery was destroyed by fire. However, it was quickly rebuilt as a raw spirit facility—an operation it continues to serve to this day.
By 1900, Sundnes had become one of the most modern distillery plants in the country. Lysholm already operated a raw spirit distillery in Trondheim, but this was soon closed, with production rights transferred entirely to Sundnes.
2. M.H. Lundgreen's Enke - read more
M.H. Lundgreens Enke
Although Sundnes Aquavit was produced on Inderøy, it was sold through M.H. Lundgreens Enke, a spirit merchant based in Trondheim.
Herman Løchen, who managed both the distillery and the estate’s extensive farming operations, also exported hundreds of oxen from Sundnes Harbour to England. His final shipment, 300 head of cattle in the spring of 1874, proved disastrous. A sudden drop in market prices meant the sale didn’t even cover the transport costs, leading to Løchen’s bankruptcy. He passed away shortly after.
In 1877, M.H. Lundgreens Enke took over the running of Sundnes Brug and continued the production of Sundnes Aquavit. Then in 1899, A. Karseth purchased the distillery, while Lundgreens Enke retained the rights to produce and sell “Sundes Akevit”—the flagship product that had represented Sundnes for over 50 years. From that point on, Sundnes Aquavit was produced in Trondheim.
4. Sundnes Distillery Ltd - learn more
Sundnes Distillery (Brænderi) Ltd
As the temperance movement gained influence, J.B. Lysholm decided to cease raw spirit production in 1908. A new taxation system had made distilling spirits increasingly unprofitable. For over 60 years, local agriculture in the Inderøy region had relied heavily on grain and potato cultivation, with a guaranteed buyer in the Sundnes distillery. Shutting it down would have significant consequences for the farming community.
In response, farmers from Inderøy and the surrounding area joined forces in 1912 to form a limited company and purchased the distillery from Sundnes Brug. From that point on, the estate and the distillery were run as separate entities.
Distillation apparatus at Berg Farm and Inderøy Distillery, Inderøy. Photo: Explorative
Vinmonopolet Ltd. is established
In 1916, a referendum in Norway led to the introduction of a ban on spirits, resulting in all alcohol being sold exclusively through pharmacies. In 1920, the farmers of Sundnes sought to relaunch the iconic Sundnes Akvavit. To do so, they had to purchase the rights to the brand and recipes from Lundgreens Enke for around 20,000 NOK. They then invested in new distilling equipment from Germany, ready to relaunch the product. However, before this could happen, the government introduced Vinmonopolet, granting it a monopoly on the distillation of spirits. In 1923, Sundnes Distillery was forced to dismantle its equipment but continued to produce raw spirits for Vinmonopolet until 2019.
Read more about the prohibition of spirits and the formation of Vinmonopolet
The Spirits Ban 1916 – 1927
In 1916, following a referendum, Norway introduced a ban on spirits, and all alcohol was subsequently sold exclusively through pharmacies. By 1920, the farmers of Sundnes decided to relaunch the renowned Sundnes Akvavit. To do so, they entered negotiations with Lundgreens Enke, who still held the rights to the brand and recipes. They paid approximately 20,000 NOK to acquire the rights and ordered a fine distilling apparatus from Germany, preparing for the relaunch of Sundnes Akvavit.
However, shortly after, the government passed a decree establishing Vinmonopolet, granting it a monopoly on the distillation of spirits. This move was aimed at curbing the growing illegal production of spirits. The state took control of all distilleries in Norway, confiscating stock, equipment, and recipes. In 1923, Sundnes Distillery was forced to dismantle its equipment but received compensation of 132,000 NOK. Despite this setback, the distillery continued to produce raw spirits for Vinmonopolet until 2019.
The spirits ban was repealed in 1927, making it the only law introduced following a referendum to be overturned by the Norwegian Parliament (Stortinget).
The big four
Of all the aquavits available at the time, only four were continued by Vinmonopolet: Gammel Oppland, Lysholm, Simers, and Løiten. Over time, Vinmonopolet also developed its own new aquavit offerings.
Aquavit – the poor man’s liquor?
So, why is it called Vinmonopol? Well, the answer is right there in the name! The state wanted to encourage people to buy wine instead of spirits, as spirits were seen as a harmful choice. There was a lot of abuse and poor conditions in the country towards the end of the 1800s and into the early 1900s. The aim was to shift consumption towards lighter products, which is why the focus at Vinmonopolet was on wine. And if it had to be spirits, they wanted it to be fine French brandies.
Akvavit, on the other hand, was considered the drink of the common folk. You could say that aquavit was a bit neglected until 1986, when it started to receive more attention.
Caraway field in Straumen, Inderøy municipality.
Photo: Explorative
Flavour map of wild plants found outside the barrel warehouse at Berg Farm and Inderøy Distillery.
Photo: Explorative
The father of modern aquavit
In 1986, Halvor Heuch was hired by Vinmonopolet, and he took it upon himself to revive the old traditions of Norwegian food and drink. 1988 is considered a milestone in the history of aquavit, as that year Heuch launched Gilde Juleakevitt. Since then, Vinmonopolet has released a new edition each year. Heuch is now the Director of Expertise at Arcus and has been honoured with the title of Knight First Class of the Order of St. Olav for his contributions to Norwegian food culture and the tradition of aquavit.
Inderøy Distillery and The Golden Aquavit
116 years after the last bottle was filled, aquavit producer Svein Berfjord brought the tradition back to Inderøy, where he now runs Inderøy Brenneri at Berg Gård.
Following the lifting of the spirits production monopoly in 2005, there has been a rise in small-scale aquavit production. In 2015, Kjersti and Svein Berfjord established Inderøy Brenneri at Berg Gård, where they craft barrel-aged aquavit using their own homegrown Inderøy caraway. Their first aquavit was delivered to Vinmonopolet in 2016. The Inderøy caraway, used in many Norwegian aquavits, is also cultivated by other local farmers. Svein ages the aquavit in old sherry casks and produces several varieties, including Den Gyldne Akevitt, where all the ingredients are locally sourced, such as angelica, dandelion, and spruce shoots. The farm also offers tours with aquavit tastings.
The aquavit farmer Svein. Photo: M Rua
DID YOU FIND WHAT YOU ARE SEARCHING FOR IN INNHERRED?
INNHERRED TURISTKONTOR
Besøksadresse: Hamnegata 20, 7714 STEINKJER
Postadresse: Postboks 91, Sørsileiret, 7701 STEINKJER
Org. nr: 990 658 471
Tel: +47 74 40 17 16
post@visitinnherred.com